I grew up in East Africa, and I still remember the first time I watched a herd of elephants move silently through the morning mist in Amboseli. I was maybe nine years old. I didn’t have the words for it then — but I knew it was something I wanted everyone to experience.

That feeling is why I started Bashem Safaris. Not to sell a package, but to open a door. To take people who’ve only ever seen this continent on a National Geographic screen and put them right in the middle of it — dusty and sunburnt and completely overwhelmed by how alive everything is.

Over the years, I’ve guided and planned hundreds of safaris. I’ve also watched a lot of first-timers show up underprepared, overpacked, at the wrong time of year, at a price that didn’t match what they actually got. That’s what this guide is for.

I’ve tried to write it the way I’d explain things to a close friend sitting across my kitchen table. No fluff, no upsell — just honest, practical guidance from someone who’s done this for a living and loves every minute of it.

Read it all the way through, or jump to whatever’s on your mind. Either way, by the end you’ll have everything you need to start planning the trip of your life.

— Emma

Kenya & Tanzania — the two dry seasons

East Africa broadly follows two dry seasons and two wet seasons. The dry seasons are when most people visit — game is easier to spot, roads are passable, and the skies are clear. The short rains (October–November) and long rains (April–May) bring lush landscapes and far fewer crowds at a lower cost.

Uganda & Rwanda — gorilla trekking

Gorilla permits are available year-round, but the best conditions for trekking are during the two dry seasons: June–September and December–February. Trails are less muddy, the forest is easier to navigate, and altitude conditions are milder.

That said, some visitors actually prefer the green season — the forest is extraordinary after rain, gorilla families tend to be at lower altitudes (easier trek), and permits are slightly easier to secure on short notice.

The rainy season — more honest advice

I want to give you a fair picture of the low season, because the travel industry often makes it sound dreadful when it isn’t. Yes, some roads become challenging. Yes, you’ll see rain. But you’ll also pay 20–35% less, have camps almost to yourself, and experience a version of Africa that most safari-goers never see — green, dramatic, and full of newborn animals.

The long rains (April–May) are the one period I’d genuinely caution against for a first visit. Some camps close, and roads in places like the Serengeti can become impassable. Short rains (October–November) are mild by comparison and often underrated.

The Great Wildebeest Migration

Around 1.5 million wildebeest, 400,000 zebra, and 200,000 gazelle move in a continuous loop between Tanzania’s Serengeti and Kenya’s Masai Mara. There is no single “Migration” moment — it’s year-round. But the drama concentrates at two points:

• January–March (Serengeti, Tanzania): Calving season. Vast herds on the short grass plains, thousands of births, and the predators that follow. Deeply moving, and often overlooked.
• July–October (Masai Mara, Kenya): The famous river crossings. Wildebeest plunge into the crocodile-filled Mara River in explosive, terrifying waves. This is the moment most people have seen on documentaries.

Mountain Gorillas

There are approximately 1,000 mountain gorillas left on earth, all living in the Virunga Massif (spanning Uganda, Rwanda, and DRC) and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in Uganda. Permits allow one hour with a habituated gorilla family. It is, without question, one of the most profound wildlife experiences available anywhere.

Each country allows a limited number of permits per day per family group, so advance booking — ideally 6–12 months ahead — is essential for peak season dates.

The Big Five

The Big Five (lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo, rhino) can be seen year-round in many East African parks. For the best chances:

• Lion: Masai Mara, Serengeti, Queen Elizabeth NP (the tree-climbing lions are a highlight)
• Leopard: Harder to spot; your best odds are in the Masai Mara and South Luangwa (Zambia, if you’re extending)
• Elephant: Amboseli (Kenya) is unmatched — herds of 50+ under Kilimanjaro
• Rhino: Black rhino in Ngorongoro Crater; white rhino at Ol Pejeta Conservancy (Kenya)
• Buffalo: Everywhere — they’re one of the most abundant large mammals

Chimpanzees & other primates

Uganda’s Kibale Forest has the highest density of primates in Africa — 13 species including 1,500 chimpanzees. Chimp tracking is a full morning experience. For something slower and more intimate, chimp habituation allows you to spend a full day with a family as researchers work to acclimatise them to human presence.

Gorilla trekking — special kit

Bwindi and Volcanoes are dense mountain forest. You’ll be climbing through mud, stinging nettles, and thick undergrowth for anywhere from 30 minutes to 6 hours depending on where the family has moved. Add to your standard pack:

• Long waterproof gaiters (provided at some sites, worth bringing your own)
• Thick gardening-style gloves (nettles are brutal)
• Sturdy hiking boots — not trail runners — with ankle support
• Walking stick (available at the park gate)
• Small daypack (guides carry the heavy stuff)

What’s typically included

• Accommodation (en-suite tent, lodge room, or villa)
• All meals and most beverages (premium drinks often extra)
• Morning and afternoon game drives
• Park fees at the primary game reserve
• Airport transfers within the destination

What’s typically excluded — the hidden costs

• International flights — budget $1,200–$2,500 return from North America
• Gorilla/chimp permits — Uganda: $700pp, Rwanda: $1,500pp. These are fixed government fees.
• Travel insurance — essential; $100–$250 for a 2-week trip
• Gratuities — $10–$20/day for your guide is standard and meaningful
• Visa fees — East Africa Tourist Visa (Kenya + Uganda + Rwanda): $100 for eligible nationalities
• Souvenirs and personal expenses

Vaccinations

Visit a travel health clinic at least 6–8 weeks before departure. Recommended vaccinations for East Africa:

• Hepatitis A & B — strongly recommended
• Typhoid — recommended
• Yellow Fever — required for Uganda and Rwanda; strongly recommended for others. You’ll need to carry the certificate.
• Rabies — recommended if you’ll be in remote areas or working with animals
• Meningitis (ACWY) — recommended for Uganda and Rwanda
• COVID-19 — check current entry requirements per country

Malaria prevention

Malaria is present in most safari destinations. Prophylaxis is strongly recommended. Common options prescribed for East Africa:

• Atovaquone/proguanil (Malarone): Fewest side effects, start 1–2 days before travel
• Doxycycline: Cheaper; start 2 days before; increases sun sensitivity
• Mefloquine (Lariam): Weekly tablet; start 2 weeks before; more side effects

Beyond prophylaxis: use DEET repellent, sleep in screened accommodation, and wear long sleeves and trousers from dusk. Most quality safari lodges provide mosquito nets.

Travel insurance

Please, please don’t skip this. A safari medical evacuation from a remote park — which can be necessary for illness, injury, or even altitude sickness on a gorilla trek — can cost $10,000–$50,000 without insurance. Look for a policy that includes:

• Emergency medical evacuation (minimum $250,000 coverage)
• Trip cancellation and curtailment
• Baggage and personal effects
• 24-hour emergency assistance line

Providers we’ve had good experiences with: World Nomads, Allianz Travel, and Manulife (for Canadian clients).

How far in advance?

For peak season (July–October), the best lodges and gorilla permits book out 6–12 months in advance. For shoulder and low season, 3–6 months is usually sufficient. Honestly, there’s no downside to starting early — we can put options on hold while you finalise your dates.

Gorilla permits — plan first, book everything else second

Gorilla permits are the hardest thing to lock in. In Uganda, the Uganda Wildlife Authority releases permits on a rolling basis; in Rwanda, the Rwanda Development Board sometimes releases them in batches. If gorilla trekking is on your list, confirm permit availability before booking flights.

Group sizes

Smaller is better on safari — for wildlife sightings, for flexibility, and for the experience. Private game drives (just your group in a vehicle) are worth the extra cost if your budget allows. In shared vehicles, 4 guests is comfortable; 6 is manageable; anything more starts to compromise sightings and the intimacy of the experience.

Red flags when booking

• Prices that seem dramatically lower than everything else — almost always means something important is excluded (park fees, transfers, one meal a day)
• Operators who can’t name specific lodges or camps — a sign they’re selling air and will fill in details later
• No flexibility on itinerary — the best operators customise; package-only is a warning sign
• No clear cancellation and refund policy in writing

What a good operator does

They ask you questions before they quote. What’s your travel experience? What matters most to you — comfort, wildlife, culture, adventure? How many days do you have, and what’s your honest budget? A good safari specialist spends time understanding what will make this trip meaningful for you specifically — not just filling a standard itinerary.

That’s how I approach every conversation at Bashem. I’m not trying to sell you the most expensive package — I’m trying to plan the trip you’ll talk about for the rest of your life.

Tourism is one of the most powerful conservation tools in East Africa. When communities benefit directly from wildlife — through employment, lodge revenue, and permit fees — they have a real economic reason to protect it. The alternative is bushmeat, agricultural encroachment, and habitat loss.

But not all tourism is created equal. High-volume, low-spend tourism can extract value from a community and environment without returning it. What we try to do at Bashem is the opposite: connect our clients with operators who are genuinely invested in the ecosystems they operate in.

What responsible tourism looks like in practice

• Community-owned lodges and conservancies — where land lease fees and employment go directly to local families
• Local guides — not imported; your guide’s knowledge of the land comes from growing up on it
• Small group sizes — less pressure on wildlife, less disturbance at sightings
• Strict wildlife protocols — minimum distances, no off-roading in sensitive areas, no feeding animals
• Support for anti-poaching initiatives — some lodges channel a portion of fees directly to ranger programmes

Gorillas and habituation — why rules matter

The one-hour limit on gorilla trekking is not a tourism restriction — it’s a conservation one. Mountain gorillas are susceptible to human respiratory diseases. The rules (mask when sick, no flash photography, minimum distance) exist to protect populations that have taken decades to recover. Please follow them.

Bashem’s approach

I’m East African. This is my home. Every safari I plan is an act of trust — you’re trusting me with a trip of a lifetime, and I’m asking you to treat my continent and its people with the respect they deserve. In return, I’ll give you everything I have: honest advice, personalised planning, genuine connection to place.

We partner with lodges and operators who share these values. If you ever want to know specifically what conservation contribution your itinerary supports, just ask — I’ll tell you exactly.